A brief history of (the real) centerpiece of Thanksgiving: pie – Food[at]Tufts (2024)

FAQs

What is the history of pies at Thanksgiving? ›

Pies came to the newly formed United States in the late 18th century from British immigrants who brought their longstanding tradition of meat and fruit filled pastry pies. And it wasn't until the 19th century when pies became the standard American Thanksgiving dessert.

This orange-golden-crusted pie is more than just a staple of the Thanksgiving table. Pumpkin pie, which has been growing in the Americas for centuries now, symbolizes the gratitude and appreciation our ancestors once experienced each harvest season.

The pies don't take up precious oven space on Thanksgiving Day. The space in the oven is coveted on Thanksgiving. If you prepare the pies early so you can eat them on Thanksgiving Eve, then they'll be out of the way. Those who want dessert after Thanksgiving dinner will still be able to eat pie.

The first recorded pie recipe in America was for a humble pumpkin pie, prepared by Pilgrims in the 17th century. From there, pie-making evolved and flourished, reflecting the diverse influences of different cultures and regions.

A Harvest Celebration

During the autumn of 1621, at least 90 Wampanoag joined 52 English people at what is now Plymouth, Massachusetts, to mark a successful harvest. It is remembered today as the “First Thanksgiving,” although no one back then used that term.

The Ancient Egyptians were the first to invent a dish close to what we know as a pie today. They had a honey filling covered in a crusty cake made from oats, wheat, rye or barley. A recipe for chicken pie was also discovered on a tablet carved prior to 2000 BC.

The very first Thanksgiving was held in New England between the Wampanoag Tribe and Plymouth Colonists. It was a way to celebrate the successful harvest. It's said that pumpkin was served at this celebratory dinner, but no one knows if it was a pie-like dessert or a pumpkin dish, but pumpkins were definitely involved!

Because of the pumpkin's association with the harvest, it increasingly became a part of the national harvest celebration of Thanksgiving as a pie.

In English, the word pumpkin is often used as a term of endearment. Other English words that people commonly use to express their adoration for someone include babe, baby, beautiful, buddy, cupcake, cutie-pie, darling, dear, handsome, honey, pet, princess, sugar, sweet pea, sweetie, or sweetie-pie.

When it comes to dessert at the first Thanksgiving celebration, there's no documented evidence of what the pilgrims and Native Americans may have had (if anything). But it's pretty clear they did not have pumpkin pie or any pie for that matter. The colonists lacked wheat flour and butter necessary for making pie crust.

Why do we eat so early on Thanksgiving? ›

There are many reasons, but primarily: Historically, dinner became before supper; it makes for a more relaxed day; it's simply tradition; it's more convenient for traveling guests; and, of course, to watch football.

The real story behind this festival is that the pilgrims or the English Colonists of Plymouth enjoyed a good harvest in 1621. To honour the same, they planned an elaborate meal to give thanks to the almighty for the abundance of food.

In fact, the first recorded instance of a pumpkin pie recipe, called “Tourte of Pumpkin,” came in a 1653 English cookbook. And contrary to popular belief, pumpkin pie was not a part of the first Thanksgiving. They weren't even a popular staple at American Thanksgivings until the later 19^th century.

According to some accounts, early English settlers in North America improvised by hollowing out pumpkins, filling the shells with milk, honey and spices to make a custard, then roasting the gourds whole in hot ashes.

The first version of pumpkinpie originated when British colonists sliced off the top of the pumpkin, removed its seeds, and filled the hollow with milk, spices, and honey. Baked in hot ashes, the end result was a sort of pudding rather than a pie.

When settlers arrived in Plymouth in 1620, Native American tribes brought pumpkins as gifts and taught them how to properly prepare them for stews and pies. The importance of pumpkins (and squash) and Thanksgiving has been a part of the tradition ever since.

Both the Pilgrims and members of the Wampanoag tribe ate pumpkins and other squashes indigenous to New England—possibly even during the harvest festival—but the fledgling colony lacked the butter and wheat flour necessary for making pie crust. Moreover, settlers hadn't yet constructed an oven for baking.

Pumpkin Pie

Pilgrims liked pumpkins. According to accounts, they used to hollow them out, fill them with milk and honey to make a custard, and then roast the orange orbs in hot ashes. But when it came to making pies, the Pilgrims were essentially out of luck.

The creation of flaky pie crust made with lard is credited to American innovation. Early versions of pie were baked in long, narrow pans, then called a "coffyn" instead of crust; these early pastry shells were intended simply to hold the filling, not to be eaten.