Meat Loaf : Loaf Me Tender, Loaf Me Lean: A Cook's Guide (2024)

You can throw a bunch of meat and spice in a pan and call it meat loaf. But if you’re interested in making a good meat loaf, you should know there are all sorts of important variables. The kind of meat you use, the type of extender--even the mixing technique and baking time--make a difference.

The Meat:

Ground chuck or regular ground beef, which has 25% to 30% fat, produces a better meat loaf than extra-lean beef or ground sirloin, which contains 15% to 20% fat. The fat adds flavor and prevents dry and crumbly texture, which is especially a danger when a meat loaf has been overcooked. If you like the flavor of the more expensive lean meat, ask the butcher to grind some suet with it to bring up the fat level.

The most popular combination of meats is two parts beef to one part each veal and pork. Some markets sell this combination in their meat-loaf packages.

You can add flavor and juiciness by lining the meat loaf pan or covering the top of the loaf (or wrapping it) with bacon slices, leaf lard or caul fat. If you find the smoky taste of bacon objectionable, blanch it first.

The Starch:

Bread crumbs are the most common extender in meat loaf, but the following are all good substitutes: oats, rice, saltine cracker crumbs, wheat germ.

These do more than simply make the meat go further. They absorb fat and soften the texture, and they bind wet or crumbly mixtures into a cohesive mass. Too much starch, however, will give a mushy texture and mask the meat flavor. For an average meat loaf, use 1/2 to 3/4 cup fresh, soft bread crumbs to every pound of meat. When using fine, dry crumbs, use half as much.

Other Ingredients:

Eggs bind the mixture, add flavor and increase browning, but too much egg will make a meat loaf tough and rubbery. Use about one egg per pound of meat. If using pork sausage, skip the egg.

Milk adds flavor and moisture and helps distribute the seasoning throughout the mass. Any of the following make good substitutes: sour cream, half and half, yogurt, creamed cottage cheese, tomato sauce, tomato juice, stewed tomatoes, catsup, barbecue sauce, spaghetti sauce, broth, white sauce.

Shredded, chopped or mashed vegetables such as carrots, potatoes, sweet potatoes, spinach or even apples contribute juiciness, color and interesting texture. Watch out for chopped raw onion, though, because it will “weep” and shrink while the loaf cooks, giving an undesirably crumbly texture. To avoid this, either mince the onion fine or fry it before adding to the mixture.

Making Meat Loaf for

Sandwiches:

Meat loaf can be made firmer by adding more egg. For an even firmer, terrine-like consistency, place a heavy weight on the loaf during baking. When making the sandwiches, take the meatloaf slices out of the refrigerator in time to reach room temperature.

Mixing:

Combine all seasonings, binders and other ingredients before mixing into the ground meats. Dampen hands to prevent sticking. Then mix the ingredients thoroughly for uniform, even texture while handling as lightly as possible. Overkneading and pressing make a dense, tough loaf.

When checking the seasoning, do not taste the meat mixture raw. Cook a small amount in lightly greased skillet, cool slightly then taste. Or microwave 1 tablespoon mixture on HIGH 30 seconds to 1 minute.

The loaf may be placed in a loaf or casserole dish; it will look better if the top is rounded slightly. When making free-form, oval or round loaves, shape gently without pressing. To avoid cracks, which could result in the loss of juices, smooth with a wet spatula or the back of a spoon. Avoid piercing the loaf while cooking lest the juices run out.

Baking Time:

If using pork, by itself or in combination with other meats, cook the meat loaf well done: 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours at 350 degrees for a two-pound mixture. Turkey or chicken should also be cooked the maximum time.

Veal, lamb and beef, however, may be cooked just to the desired doneness. Remember that the leaner the meats, the faster they will cook.

YANKS CAJUN

MEAT LOAF

1/4 cup unsalted butter

1/2 cup chopped green onions

1 cup finely diced red, green or yellow pepper

1 cup diced onions

1/4 cup diced celery

2 small jalapeno chiles

1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 1/4 tablespoons hot pepper sauce

1 1/4 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

2 bay leaves

2 to 4 tablespoons Cajun spices (bottled blend)

1/3 cup milk

1/3 cup Heinz 57 sauce

1/3 cup catsup

1 pound ground beef (80% lean, 20% fat)

3/4 pound ground pork

2 eggs

3/4 cup bread crumbs

Melt butter in skillet over medium heat. Saute green onions, pepper, onions, celery and jalapenos until tender, about 10 minutes. Add cayenne, hot pepper sauce, Worcestershire, bay leaves and Cajun spices. Saute 5 minutes longer.

Add milk, Heinz 57 sauce and catsup. Simmer 5 minutes. Remove from heat, then add beef, pork, eggs and crumbs. Mix well.

Pack mixture into 9x5-inch glass loaf pan. Cover with foil. Bake in pan of hot water at 350 degrees 1/2 hour. Remove cover and bake additional 30 minutes. Remove from oven and cool before slicing. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

LEONARD SCHWARTZ’S

MEAT LOAF

3/4 cup minced onion

3/4 cup minced green onions

1/2 cup minced celery

1/2 cup minced carrot

1/4 cup minced green pepper

1/4 cup minced sweet red pepper

2 teaspoons minced garlic

3 tablespoons butter

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 teaspoon black pepper

1/2 teaspoon white pepper

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/2 cup half and half

1/2 cup catsup

1 1/2 pounds lean ground beef

1/2 pound lean ground pork

3 eggs, beaten

3/4 cup dry bread crumbs

Sauce

Saute onion, green onions, celery, carrot, green pepper, red pepper and garlic in butter until vegetables are tender and liquid is absorbed. Cool and reserve.

Combine salt, cayenne, black pepper, white pepper, cumin and nutmeg and add to vegetable mixture. Stir in half and half, catsup, beef, pork, eggs and bread crumbs. Mix well.

Form into loaf and place on greased baking sheet or in 9x5-inch loaf pan. Bake at 350 degrees 45 to 50 minutes. Let stand 10 minutes before slicing. Pour off excess fat. Slice and serve with Sauce. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Sauce

4 shallots, minced

2 tablespoons butter

1 sprig thyme

1 bay leaf

Dash crushed black pepper

1 cup dry white wine

1 cup veal or beef stock

1 cup chicken stock

Salt, pepper

Saute shallots in 1 tablespoon butter with thyme, bay leaf and black pepper. Add white wine and simmer over high heat until reduced to glaze.

Add beef stock and chicken stock and simmer over high heat until reduced by 1/3 to 1/2. Stir in remaining 1 tablespoon butter and season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir until butter melts and sauce blends in. Discard bay leaf. Makes 1 cup.

ED DEBEVIC’S

MEAT LOAF

2 tablespoons minced parsley

1 onion, minced

1 medium potato, cooked and mashed

1 1/4 teaspoons garlic powder

1 1/4 teaspoons black pepper

3/4 teaspoon salt

1 egg

1/2 cup tomato juice

1 teaspoon tomato paste

2 1/2 pounds ground beef

Combine parsley, onion, potato, garlic powder, pepper, salt, egg, tomato juice and paste. Mix well. Add beef and mix well again.

Pack into 9x5-inch loaf pan. Bake at 350 degrees 1 1/2 hours or until meat thermometer registers 160 degrees. Drain fat, then cool meat loaf in pan 15 to 20 minutes before removing. Makes 8 servings.

LAMB LOAF WITH FETA

AND OLIVES

2 tablespoons olive oil

1/2 cup chopped onion

1 large garlic, minced

2 teaspoons minced capers

1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano

3 tablespoons chicken broth

1/4 cup minced Kalamata olives

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons coarsely crumbled feta cheese

1 egg

1 pound ground lamb

Salt, pepper

Fresh Tomato Salsa

Heat olive oil in skillet. Saute onion and garlic until tender. Add capers and oregano. Combine in bowl with chicken broth, capers, olives, 1/2 cup feta cheese and egg. Mix well. Add ground lamb and mix gently but thoroughly. Season lightly with salt and pepper.

Without pressing or compacting, shape meat mixture into oval or round loaf. Make about 4 ridges on top of loaf. Place loaf in small baking pan and bake at 350 degrees 20 to 30 minutes, or to desired degree of doneness. Fill ridges of loaf with remaining feta cheese and return to oven about 5 minutes. Serve, surrounded with Fresh Tomato Salsa. Makes 3 to 4 servings.

Note: This meat loaf is on the firm side and makes a good sandwich meat loaf with dark bread.

Fresh Tomato Salsa

1 cup drained diced tomatoes

1 teaspoon capers

1 teaspoon caper juice

2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar

2 tablespoons finely sliced red onion

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1 tablespoon finely chopped basil

Salt, pepper

Lemon juice

Combine tomatoes, capers, caper juice, vinegar, red onion, sugar and basil. Season to taste with salt, pepper and lemon juice. Makes about 1 cup.

TURKEY SAUSAGE

RING LOAF WITH

POTATO WEDGES

1/2 pound turkey sausage

3/4 pound ground pork

3/4 pound ground beef

1 cup minced onion

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 hard-cooked eggs, chopped

1/2 cup raisins

1/2 cup toasted pine nuts or pistachios, optional

1/4 cup sweet pickle relish

Salt, pepper

Sauce

Potato Wedges

Combine turkey sausage, ground pork and beef in bowl. In separate bowl, mix onion, garlic, hard-cooked eggs, raisins, 6 tablespoons pine nuts and pickle relish. Add to meat mixture. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Mix lightly but thoroughly. Gently pat into 10-inch ring mold. Garnish top with remaining nuts and bake at 350 degrees 1 hour.

Cool slightly before unmolding. After unmolding, reserve drippings for Sauce. Serve with Sauce and Potato Wedges. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Sauce

Reserved drippings from meat loaf

1/4 cup white wine

1 cup whipping cream

1/4 cup unsalted butter, diced

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

Salt, pepper

Combine drippings with white wine in small saucepan. Bring to boil 5 minutes. Add whipping cream and cook over medium heat until reduced by 1/3. Slowly stir in butter pieces. Add mustard and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Potato Wedges

3 large Russet potatoes, unpeeled

1/4 cup olive oil, about

1 tablespoon crushed sage

Salt, pepper

Juice of 1/2 lemon

Cut potatoes in 8 wedges then cut in halves diagonally. Mix olive oil, sage and salt and pepper to taste. Dip potatoes in mixture. Place on baking tray and bake at 350 degrees, stirring occasionally. Squeeze juice over all and toss. Serve immediately. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Food styling by Minnie Bernardino and Donna Deane