Tampa man carries on deviled crab tradition inspired by Ybor City immigrants (2024)

Taste of History: Devil crabs

Mark Wilson reports

TAMPA, Fla. - Just how many deviled crabs has Pappy Derose rolled in his lifetime?

"I can’t even guess," he laughed.

After immigrating from the Bahamas more than 30 years ago, he started making deviled crabs at an Ybor city restaurant.

He's been doing it ever since.

"I always wanted to make it big, make a lot of deviled crabs. That was the plan a long time ago," he recalled.

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Now, through his own restaurant and catering business, Pappy carries on a legacy that started over one hundred years ago.

Tampa man carries on deviled crab tradition inspired by Ybor City immigrants (1)

University of South Florida historian Gary Mormino says the deviled crab emerged in the early 20th century, likely because of Ybor city's immigrant influence.

"The croquette from Spain and crabs in Cuba, and you know, human ingenuity! Who doesn’t like the sweetness of crab meat with the deep-fried flavor?" he asked.

Mormino says the cheap street snack may have thrived during employee strikes in Ybor's large cigar-making industry.

"You literally had soup kitchens, but the deviled crab was also an ingenious idea to feed the cigar workers," he stated.

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The popularity of deviled crabs also paved the way for savvy businessmen in Ybor City.

Tampa man carries on deviled crab tradition inspired by Ybor City immigrants (2)

"The most famous salesman of deviled crab was Miranda. Miranda had a little motorcycle with a sidecar, and it said Miranda’s Crabs," Mormino stated.

Miranda would sell them around Ybor City and actually put several kids through college selling deviled crabs.

But Mormino says it's hard to know the exact origin story of the deviled crab.

"No one was there with a tape recorder or notebook," he commented

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Now, the Tampa tradition continues and is passed on through Pappy Derose and his family.

"Being the younger generation, it feels great to reintroduce a food item that’s been around for a long time and people love it," says Frantz, Pappy's son.

Tampa man carries on deviled crab tradition inspired by Ybor City immigrants (3)

And if you're wondering if it's "devil" or "deviled" crab, they're sort of both right.

Lore has it that once upon a time, someone ate one and said it was "hot as the devil" and the name stuck. But through the years it's kind of morphed into "deviled" crab.

Pappy's Island Crew Restaurant is on East Hillsborough Avenue in Tampa.

Tampa man carries on deviled crab tradition inspired by Ybor City immigrants (2024)

FAQs

What is the origin of the deviled crab? ›

Deviled crab (croqueta de jaiba in Spanish) is a crab meat croquette. Deviled crab croquettes originated in Tampa, Florida, where they were developed in the Spanish, Cuban and Italian immigrant community of Ybor City. It is typically served for lunch or as a snack, and it is meant to be eaten with one hand.

How to eat a deviled crab? ›

The mixture is traditionally spooned into a crab shell and then topped with buttered breadcrumbs and baked, but ramekins can also be used. Deviled crab is wonderful as a first course, or can be enjoyed as an entrée when served with a fresh salad or green vegetable.

Is devil crab edible? ›

The aptly named Toxic Reef Crab (also referred to as the Devil Crab), Zosimus aeneus, can be so toxic as to kill within a few hours of consumption and has been reported to be used by Pacific Islanders as a means for suicide.

Who is the origin of the crab? ›

The Brachyura, or 'true' crabs, are the most derived and diverse group of crustaceans. They are first known from the Mid–Jurassic (~160 Ma.) and rapidly diversified worldwide during the Cretaceous (~146 to 66 Ma.).

Where did eating crab come from? ›

In a Portuguese cave beside the Atlantic Ocean, Neanderthals may have made brown crabs a menu mainstay. Archaeologists have unearthed evidence that the early humans were cooking and eating crab meat 90,000 years ago, according to a study published Tuesday in Frontiers in Environmental Archaeology.

Is it devil crab or deviled crab? ›

Most locals call them devil crab, not deviled. Lore has it someone once ate one and said it was hot as the devil and the name stuck. A reflection of the population of Ybor City in the 1920s, they're a mix of Spanish, Cuban, and Italian ingredients, combined with blue crab from Tampa Bay.

How do you reheat deviled crabs? ›

Fully cooked, serve warm or cold. Heating Instructions (from thawed product-cooking from frozen not recommended): Microwave: Heat for 45 seconds on high. Oven: Heat for 10-12 minutes at 425°F.

When should you not eat crab? ›

The Claim: Never Eat Shellfish in a Month Without an R. American Indians are said to have introduced this warning centuries ago to early settlers, and nowadays the saying is applied to the months without an R, namely May through August.

What crab is not edible? ›

Xanthidae is a family of crabs known as gorilla crabs, mud crabs, pebble crabs or rubble crabs. Xanthid crabs are often brightly coloured and are highly poisonous, containing toxins which are not destroyed by cooking and for which no antidote is known.

Is there edible meat in the body of a king crab? ›

The most preferred meat from a king crab is in the legs. Most king crab enthusiasts state that the best section is the merus section, that is, the largest section of the crab leg. Compared to other crabs, the king crab claws are not as notorious as the legs.

Where did black pepper crab originate? ›

The creation of Singapore's black pepper crab is attributed to Long Beach Seafood Restaurant in 1959.

Where did imitation crab come from? ›

Imitation crab, also known as “krab” or “crab sticks,” is a type of seafood made from white fish and starch that is molded to resemble and taste like snow or spider crab meat. It was invented in 1974 by Sugiyo Co. of Japan under the name “kanimam” and is now consumed around the globe.

What are the devil's fingers in crabs? ›

This stringy, bitter tasking, substance is actually the crab's lungs. It is a myth that eating the “devil” will make you sick; it is just that the lungs have an unpleasant taste. Just use your fingers to pinch it, or scrape with a knife to discard.

How was chilli crab invented? ›

Chilli crab is said to have been invented by Cher Yam Tian in the mid-1950s when she added bottled chilli sauce to her dish of stir-fried crabs, instead of using tomato sauce, her usual ingredient. In 1956, she and her husband began selling the dish from a pushcart along the seaside.

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