Unable to expose enough threads to secure my axle/spline nuts [Archive] (2024)

MX-5 Miata Forum > All Miatas > Engine Conversions > Unable to expose enough threads to secure my axle/spline nuts

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mrduster

22nd February 2013, 02:28

Hello. I'm wondering if anyone has ever run into this dilemma. I have installed my 7.5 rear end which was built by Martin. I have installed my bigger axles into the rear end which Martin also built. I had the local Mazda dealership install new bearings in the broached hubs. I installed the Martin supplied axle spacers into the hubs and they fit into the new seals just fine. My hubs are bolted up and the axles are spline engaged and sticking out the hubs. Now comes the dilemma. I am unable to expose enough threads on the axle to allow the new axle nuts to engage??????????
Has anyone else ran into this issue and if so what was the remedy?

The only solution I can offer is to turn down the spacers on a lathe?

donnyray

22nd February 2013, 03:53

Call Martin ; let him know you are having a problem.

Bill_Rockoff

22nd February 2013, 05:06

I would guess the dealer didn't seat the bearings fully into the hub. Your car may have been the first time anybody involved ever did that job - it's not a common need, especially in cars new enough that the owner still takes it to the dealer.

If I were you, I'd pull the brakes and measure / look to make sure it's in there all the way including the snap ring.

Good luck.

smelltheglove

22nd February 2013, 08:50

I had the same problem. I went to oreillys and found an axle nut without the washer like the Ford nut has. The threads start immediately. I just had to turn that nut tight, pull the axle through, then back that nut off and torque the Ford one down.

CSR_225

22nd February 2013, 19:52

I'm having the same problem except no threads are sticking out of my hubs. Called Martin, but unfortunately we have been playing phone tag.

chpmnsws6

22nd February 2013, 20:09

Try freezing the CV and using the heat gun on the hub?

Or if you live where I do, the CV is already frozen so heating the hub is the only resort.

smelltheglove

22nd February 2013, 22:02

I may have ever so slightly used an emory cloth and got a couple of thousandths off the out diameter of the splines, and also tapped on w/ a large socket to get the threads to poke through.

mrduster

23rd February 2013, 00:06

Thanks for the replies guys. I thought something just did not make sense on this one so I ended up calling Martin. We had a good chat for a few minutes about my not enough threads to start the nut thing. During the chat I mentioned that the Hubs slid on the axles like a hot knife through warm butter. He thought this was odd as they are supposed to be tight. He then started, out of curiosity, to measure some of his axles from the face of the outboard CV to the end of the axle. He got 4 1/8 inches. Then I measured mine and got 3 11/16 inches !!!!!
He said he had never heard of this before (what luck I have). I'm now sending my short axles to him and he is sending new long axles to me and covering all the costs.
It's so good to finally understand what was going on with these axles!!!!!

Again, thanks for your comments and suggestions.

Al English

23rd February 2013, 09:53

I may have ever so slightly used an emory cloth and got a couple of thousandths off the out diameter of the splines, and also tapped on w/ a large socket to get the threads to poke through.There are multiple places on the splines that could be tight. Removing material from the OD of the splines only helps if that is where the interference is happening.

So long as they aren't too tight, it's best if the spines themselves(not interference at the ID or OD) are a tight fit and require a little pressing or heating/cooling to assemble.

TxDarth

24th February 2013, 11:41

A question along the same topic - has anyone noticed what I deem to be a "tight" rolling resistance. By this I mean my conversion ia not yet derivable but when pushing the car around it seems very hard to push compared to what it was before. Now, I have checked each wheel separately for resistance. The front are definitely more free than the rear for sure. The rears turn but do seems tighter, the emergency is adjusted correctly and the pads don't seem to be dragging either.

When I installed my axle hubs I know that I could not get the nuts as tight as they were stock - they were a "bitch" to break loose. They all went together as described - stock 4 bolt hubs from Martin and spacers, etc. went in as described.

Question I guess - does this resistance improve after the first drive?

Vettedrmr

24th February 2013, 14:57

I'd pull the rear pads to eliminate them as a possible cause. New bearings do usually have some friction (mine just use the stock hubs).

HTH, and have a good one,
Mike

cvx_20

24th February 2013, 16:57

How's the alignment? Chances are you've changed a lot of stuff both front and rear, added big tires, wider wheels, etc.

Mike

donnyray

25th February 2013, 02:55

7/8" longer should solve your short axle problem. I'm glad you called Martin.

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Unable to expose enough threads to secure my axle/spline nuts [Archive] (2024)
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